Trattoria Di’Sordo

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Via Gioberti is fantastic. It is the real locals’ Florence, a thriving and vibrant shopping street, humming with activity. This is where Florentines come to shop, socialize, see and be seen. Anchoring the end nearest to the historic center, just steps from Piazza Beccaria, Trattoria Di’Sordo is another world.

One can easily assume that this humble restaurant has hardly changed over the years. It is a rustic and simple place. Two small dining rooms, a few old black and white photographs on the wall and worn wooden tables that show the tests of time. The menu hasn’t changed much either. It is unsophisticated food, true to the Tuscan classics.

Small diamond shaped coccoli are more akin to the version you find along the southern coast of Tuscany then the large doughy balls typical of Florence. These are much less filling, a thin square of hollow fried dough, which you fill with slightly tangy stracchino cheese and drape with thinly sliced prosciutto. Sadly, the stracchino is industrial grade, a solid square of supermarket cream cheese. More sweet than salty, and sliced very thin, the prosciutto, while very good, was not in the typical Tuscan style but that of the popular Prosciutto di Parma.

Fresh homemade orecchiette showed uncommon dedication and skill to make this more labor intensive pasta. Served with peas and calamari it was the classic Seppie con Piselli reinvisioned as a pasta, the simple pure flavors of each augmented only by a generous amount of spicy black pepper. Trippa Fiorentina (Tripe Florentine) on the contrary is a true classic, absolutely authentic to the core. Long braised tripe is cooked until tender in a thin tomato sauce and topped with a garnish of salty Parmiggiano. The meat yields immediately to the tooth, blending with the sauce and enriching the sugo with meaty richness.

Desserts are disappointing, if not atypical. Panna Cotta is a bit to firm, and while the flavor was alright on its own, it was topped with overly sweet bottled chocolate syrup, the same that mars desserts throughout the region. Instead try the homemade limoncello to discover what a real (non industrial) version tastes like.

Via Gioberti, 170/172r, Florence. tel: 055 245634. Closed Sunday.

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