Spring is a hip and happening modern restaurant. The dining room hums with activity, as crowds come to enjoy the wonderful updated French food. Tables are arranged closely around the small open kitchen, while servers expertly navigate the narrow spaces between tables. The hum of activity adds excitement to a menu full of surprises.

In fact there isn’t a menu, the chef just cooks and you should speak up if there is anything you don’t eat. But roll with the flow, and let the evening unfold to glorious success. It begins with an array of small snacks to share including the best fried calamari you will ever eat, lightly crisp calamari with just a whisper of coating. Let the sommelier provide the pairings. Like the food, they come as a surprise remaining unidentified until after you finish. In so doing you will make joyous discoveries unencumbered by bias or any preconceptions. In no case is this more apparent than with the exquisite cheese plate which highlights numerous cheeses from one of Paris’s top cheese mongers, each a different style ranging from the nutty Comte, to an aged Mimolette, to a tangy Blue d’Auvergne and the fantastic funky epoisses. They come paired not only with wine, but also a stellar Parisian beer, and the wonderfully rich Vin Jaune. The pairings are glorious, and inspired.The menu takes a meandering path wandering from Raw Tuna to rich, to meaty Turbot with Chanterelles, Roast Quail with Cherries or Seared Foie Gras perched on braised daikon radish which absorbs the sweet/sour flavors of the honey vinegar gastrique.  Desserts, like the appetizers, include lots of small dishes including a Passionfruit Curd with Meringue, Chocolate Mousse with Blackberries and a Raspberry Tart. Let the excitement, conviviality and sense of discovery transport you. This may be fine dining, but more importantly it is fun.

(Reservations a must.)

6 Rue Bailleul, Paris. www.springparis.fr; tel: +33 1 45 96 05 72

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