Spare industrial chic, this beautiful unpretentious restaurant offers incredible value. Consider it one of the leaders of the bistronomique movement. The constantly changing fixed price five course lunch is a steal for this now starred restaurant. Service is friendly and accommodating. Garden fresh vegetables are a focal point. Raw Albacore is anchored by colorful roasted beets. Foie Gras in Lobster Broth, is a decadent duo, that somehow works, the seared foie gras adding fatty richness to a clear intensely flavored lobster broth.  Octopus is wrapped in lardo before a quick sear on the grill; the lardo adding salty, fatty richness, to the lean meat while a side of smoked potatoes enhances the chargrilled flavor. Follow that with a delicious chicken surrounded by veggies, and you realize the food matches the décor; pared down presentation but with needle like culinary precision. This is good food!

80 Rue de Charonne, Paris.; tel: 33 1 43 67 38 29. Closed weekends.

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